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This is a short video of my 3DR Solo Flying through the lovely Cibolo Nature Center located in Boerne, Texas and just a short drive from San Antonio. This has got to be one of my most treasured places to visit. I feel like I am in another world, it takes me back to a much simpler time. This place has a couple different “zone” that recreate nature, like the Swap area, or Marsh Zone, even the Prairie Lands.
I just picked up my 3DR Solo this last week and have been flying it whenever I get the time. I also wanted to register with the FAA since it only costs $5 to do so. I am now licensed to fly legally, and will soon be getting my Part 107. You can contact us with questions here.
If you still hurry you might be able to purchase one from Best Buy or another local Computer store, if you already own a GoPro you should definitely pick up while you still can. I will upload some more mods as I do them, so far I plan on upgrading the GPS, HDMI cables, and adding some Moon gel.
You can use your cell phone to view the live video feed that is streamed from the 3DR back to you on the ground, but I decided to upgrade to a tablet instead. I decided I needed one with good battery life and it must have GPS in order for the “Smart Shots” to work. So I went with a Lenovo Tab from Amazon, here’s a link in case your interested http://amzn.to/2kWmQI9 it works really well and its much easier to plan out missions on
Time For some upgrades!
I decided to use my #Flashforge 3D Printer to print out some upgrade parts from Thingiverse. I went with a new Gimbal clips that prevents the GoPro from falling out of the Gimbal while your flying. The clip that comes installed from the factory requires that you remove the GoPro in order to remove your Micro Sd Card.
The picture shown on the bottom right shows a simple upgrade that can be 3D Printed if you know or have your own printer, it allows you access to your Micro Sd card without the need to remove your GoPro.
If your running the 3DR Solo with a Gimbal like I am you might also want to consider some leg extensions, that will help your GoPro & Gimbal clear the Grass or any obstacles low to the ground. They are easily installed, all you need to do is remove the old clips and snap these in their place!
So Father’s day was last week and I decided to build my Dad a new 250mm Quadcopter so we can finally race each other. I wanted to make a build video but went with a Time-lapse of the build and its pretty cool IMO. I still need to test fly it and finishing the PID tuning. So far I have some issues when trying to spool up the motors, I am going to troubleshoot it this week. Click HERE to find out more info on your own custom Quadcopter Build.
Using my Flashforge Creator Pro 3D Printer I was able to make some custom parts for this FPV Quadcopter, one of which is a low profile spacer that allows you to put all of the electronics inside the frame including the ESC’s which makes for a super clean build as show below.
The Flight Controller is running Cleanflight but I might switch it over to Betaflight, I still need to look into the recent changes of both Cleanflight and Betaflight.
Skyline32 Flight Controller
FlySky TH-9 Transmitter
2500mah LiPo Battery
Carbon Fiber 250mm Quadcopter Frame (ZMR250)
Power Distribution Board
Soon I will be posting a test flight video of this aircraft.
Most of you know that the FAA has stated that all multirotors that weigh more than 0.55 pounds must be registered in order to prevent fines upwards of $250,000. So there has been an increase in sub 250g Quadcopters and Tricopters. Well today we are gonna talk a little about my FPV Quadcopter and what they look like.
The frame I chose for this build is an: LHI 210mm Carbon Fiber Frame : Overall I am very pleased with the quality of this frame, very sturdy and lightweight coming in at 70g with all the aluminum hardware. In the future I will be using my Flashforge Creator Pro to 3D print some much lighter spacers to replace the metal spacers that come with the LHI frame.
During this build all of the wiring was done in a minimalistic fashion, I would measure the wire bundles allowing just enough wire to go from A to B then add about an inch to allow for some slack.