Xbox One Elite Controller Review

Its time for a review!

Xbox One Elite Controller Review

As of recently I started playing my computer games with an old modded Xbox 360 controller and for the most part I thought the controller I already had was great.. Until I bought the Xbox One Elite Controller. Everything about the Xbox One Elite Controller is well crafted, from the thumbsticks to the adjustable triggers. You can setup custom button mapping for your most played games and you also have a profile switch that allows you to switch back and forth between profiles directly saved on your Xbox One Elite Controller. If your running Windows 10 you can download the Xbox One Accessories app through the Windows App Store, which will allow you to customize the button layout, Xbox Button Brightness, Dead Zones for the triggers and so much more!!

So after spending $24 on a battery and another $20 on the wireless receiver I had a pretty sweet controller for my PC. Most of the games I play are on Steam which allows me to use “Big Picture” which is steams GUI for a PC based console “feel”. It makes navigating the Steam Interface much more intuitive when using a controller.

The first thing I noticed when removing the Xbox One Controller from the protective case is the weight. This controller is heavy! Even though its “heavy” I still have no issues holding this controller for hours at a time.

The rubber texture on the controller feels great and makes those long nights in front of the heavenly glow of your gaming monitor that much more bad ass!

Pros & Cons

  • Smooth Thumb-sticks
  • Custom Button Mapping
  • Easily Interchangeable Thumb-sticks and D-Pad
  • Use Your Own Headphones
  • Comfortable Grip
  • Does Not Come With Rechargeable Battery
  • Does Not Come with Wireless Receiver for PC
  • $150 Price Tag
  • Heavy (due to metal and magnets)
  • Green Sync Button

Intel Nuc – How to Install Memory and mSata SSD

Intel NUC RAM & Samsung 850 mSata SSD Installation

In this video you will see a basic installation of Corsair RAM plus a Samsung 850 mSata SSD

Tools You Will Need

  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Flat Head Screwdriver
  • 10-15 minutes of time

Impressions on the NUC from Intel

So far I have been really impressed with the performance from my NUC. I setup one as a headless server and I couldn’t be any happier. The whole unit can fit in the palm of your hand and depending on which model you get can pack a serious punch. I opted to go with the Intel Celeron 847 Dual Core, I’ll explain further down why I went with this particular model.

In my experience the NUC runs quite cool, I used a R/C Engine thermometer to test the temperature and it came in at a cool temp of 88°F so I measured my smartphone with the same thermal temperature sensor just to compare and my phone measured 85°F.

I have been looking for a solution to my server needs and this Intel NUC was up to the task. I needed something that was small and compact so at first I tried using a Raspberry Pi which is a great computer but just didn’t have the horsepower I needed and most of all a gigabit NIC. So after quite a few open source computer purchases with the latest being a bananaPi by LeMaker, I just couldn’t find a suitable piece of equipment that would fit my requirements.

The Banana Pi is another fantastic piece of hardware, it even sports a full size SATA port, which is great considering I was using it for a server. However the SATA speeds were not as I had hoped. The average transfer speed over a gigabit network was around 40 MB/s which is about average for most NFS systems. I personally prefer faster speeds, like around 110 MB/s which is exactly what I can expect from the NUC.

Reasons Why I Purchased the NUC
  1. Low Power Consumption (17 Watts) !!
  2. Runs Extremely Cool
  3. Completely Silent Operation
  4. Small Footprint
  5. VESA Mountable
  6. Very Affordable
  7. Gigabit Ethernet
  1. Intel Celeron Dual Core 847
  2. Max 16GB RAM
  3. Dual HDMI Ports
  4. 7.1 Surround through HDMI
  5. 5 Total USB Connections (3 external & 2 via internal header
  6. 3 Year Limited Warranty

San Antonio Quadcopter Builds

Quadcopters in San Antonio

Offering custom Quadcopter build services in San Antonio, Texas and the surrounding Austin, Houston and Dallas areas.

Depending on the amount of requests, I might start offering a bring your own parts program and have an expert assemble them for you.

Custom FPV Quadcopter Built by Errin @
Printed this out for @mayhemvapor and its awesome!

Each Quadcopter is built to order, and can be ready within a few days.

  • Custom Builds
  • 3D Printed Quadcopter Frames & Parts
  • FPV Setup
  • Flight Controller Programming
  • Upgrades
  • Repairs
  • Soldering

Safety Classes

Learn How to Fly Safely & Have Fun

Did you know most crashes happen due to pilot error? Well believe it or not, most of the time when you crash your Multirotor it could have been prevented.

  1. Check Your Props – Make sure they are tight & secure
  2. Check Your Battery Voltage – Use a simple battery cell checker
  3. Check Your Transmitter Batteries – Just replace or recharge if drained

If you want more tips and tricks download our PDF for FREE!

Quadcopter Mini 250mm | Flashforge Creator Pro

Cyantechio 3D Printed Multirotor 250mm
Cyantechio 3D Printed Multirotor 250mm

3D FPV Quadcopters

I have yet to actually fly FPV… I don’t trust myself with my eyes off the aircraft flying at over 45mph!

The Hardware

Flight Controller

Almost all of my 250mm Quadcopter builds use a Naze32 Flight controller which are great boards in my opinion. You can easily update the firmware and make changes using Baseflight or Cleanflight depending on your personal preferences. I personally prefer Cleanflight, it is always getting updates and having things added plus I just like the way my Quads fly when using Cleanflight.


I am using 2200KV motors made by DYS, I have about 4 sets on different Quads and I think they are pretty good. I’m sure you can get much better motors but these work great and I haven’t had any issues with these motors.


For ESC’s I have decided to go with a set of Hobbypower 12amp Esc’s that have been flashed with Simon K firmware. I am able to get pretty good flights from these esc’s, they don’t get hot and seem to work very well.

The Frame

One of the problems when looking for a Quadcopter frame is finding one that is light, strong and cheap. Which is why I have decided to use 3D printed Quadcopter frames. They are cheap, lightweight, strong and when they break you can just make another one!

Mine is made from PLA which is strong and rigid, comes in many different colors and is much easier to work with that other materials like ABS. A normal frame can be printed in about 8-12 hours depending on the particular settings for that print.


When I comes to R/C Transmitters I prefer Futaba ever since I was little that name has been a common word. Since I have several aircraft like the DJI S900 I needed something with a lot of channels so I decided to go with the Futaba 14sg. It allows you to use up to 14 channels with the correct hardware and settings.


So most of you reading this probably know what FPV is, for those of you reading that don’t know what FPV is, let me explain.


FPV or First Person View allows you to see from the perspective of a pilot sitting in a aircraft. Its like your sitting in the Quadcopter flying, it is quite an experience. In order to fly FPV you need a few things like a mini camera, video transmitter/receiver, batteries to power everything and antennas for your transmitters and receivers.

Most people will have two cameras: one to view FPV and the other to record the flight in HD.
I personally use a Sony CCTV camera with a Fatshark 250mw transmitter.

How To Tune Your Quadcopter

Well first there are some things you need to check before you try to fly your quad for your first time.

Remember when working with your Quadcopter to always make sure you remove the blades before you do any work.

Number one. You need to make sure all of your wiring is correct. That means checking all your soldering work and crimps to make sure there are no loose connections. Once you have double checked your wiring and are sure you have no loose wires, the next step is to set all of your Gyro Pots to 50%.

Then you will want to power up your quad by plugging in the battery. Once your quad has gone through its startup procedure you can now try to arm you board. When your board is correctly armed a small blue led will turn solid blue indicating that you have successfully armed your KK board. Once your board has been armed you can test the direction of the gyros as well as the rotation of the 4 motors.

The steps to test if your motors are spinning correctly are as follows.
(this procedure may vary between different Flight Control Boards)

1. Make sure you have no props mounted (For Safety)
2. Turn on your transmitter first
3. Plug your battery into your Quadcopter
4. Arm the Flight Control Board
5. Apply only 25% throttle and check the rotation of each motor (see diagram for motor direction)

The steps to test your gyro direction are as follows.

1. Make sure you have no props mounted (For Safety)
2. With the throttle at 25% pick up the Quadcopter and check that the gyros are working correctly
3. If you tilt the aircraft forward the front motors should speed up and if you tilt in reverse the back motors should speed up. (you can use tape or a zip tie mounted on the motor shaft to check direction)

4. If you tilt the aircraft to the left the left motors should speed up
5. If you tilt the aircraft to the right the right motors should speed up